Guide: Nissan Qashqai 1.5 DCI clutch replacement

Step-by-step REPXPERT guide on 2014 2WD Qashqai

Guide: Nissan Qashqai 1.5 DCI clutch replacement

Schaeffler REPXPERT Alistair Mason talks Garage Wire readers through the clutch replacement procedure on a 2014 2WD Nissan Qashqai.

The vehicle in question has covered 88,000 miles and the customer had reported a “very high clutch bite point” and that it slips on hills.

A road test confirmed clutch replacement was required.

The repair time of 4.5 hours and workshop instructions were obtained from Schaeffler’s workshop information portal REPXPERT.

Workshop equipment needed

  • Vehicle lift, two post is preferable
  • Engine support
  • Transmission jack
  • Clutch alignment tool
  • Vacuum brake and clutch bleeder

Nissan Qashqai gearbox removal

Place the vehicle on the lift and open the bonnet.

Remove the engine cover, the air filter assembly and ducting.

Disconnect and remove the battery, remove the battery carrier, disconnecting the multiplugs as required, and remove the engine control unit.

Figure three.

This now gives good access to the gearbox area, remove the crank position sensor located at the top of the bell-housing reverse light switch multiplug (figure three) and the gearbox earth cable.

The gear change cables can now be disconnected from the gearbox by compressing the retaining tabs on the ball joint and lifting up.

Disconnect the outer cables by removing the locking pins and stow the cables in the bulkhead area.

The upper bell housing bolts can now be removed.

Detach the wiring loom from the gearbox.

Disconnect the hydraulic clutch pipe at the bell housing and seal to stop the fluid running out.

Figure four.

Before raising the vehicle in the air, slacken both front wheels and front hub nuts.

Then, raise the vehicle to gain access to the underside and remove the undertray.

Remove the gearbox oil drain plug and drain the oil.

Lower the vehicle to waist height, remove both front wheels and hub nuts.

Remove the N/S/F plastic splash guard and then remove the N/S/F chassis leg (figure four).

Remove both bottom ball joint pinch bolts – it can be very difficult to pull the bottom arms down far enough to release the ball joints.

If this is the case lower the sub-frame slightly to gain additional movement.

Remove the N/S driveshaft, detach the O/S driveshaft centre bearing (figure five) and remove the O/S driveshaft.

Remove the gearbox to sub-frame pendulum mount (figure six), the exhaust front pipe bracket/mounting (figure seven) and the lower bell-housing bolts, leaving two easily accessible bolts as support until we are ready to remove the gearbox.

Support the engine using either an engine brace or a support from the underside.

In this instance we used a second transmission jack.

Support the gearbox using a transmission jack, gain access to the engine bay and remove the gearbox mounting.

Next, lower the transmission jacks slightly to gain clearance and remove the final bell housing bolts.

Ease the gearbox away from the engine and, once clear, lower the transmission jack and remove the gearbox.

Nissan Qashqai clutch replacement

Remove the clutch assembly from the dual mass flywheel.

Evidence of clutch slip was present by the “blueing” on the dual mass flywheel face (figure eight).

Flywheel replacement was advised and authorisation given.

Remove the dual mass flywheel, check for any leaks on the back of the engine and rectify if required.

Clean the back of the engine with brake and clutch dust cleaner.

Figure eight.

Mount the new flywheel, using new flywheel bolts, tighten and torque to the manufacture’s specification – Schaeffler’s new REPXPERT app is a quick reference for this information.

Once torqued, degrease the flywheel face.

We now turn our attention to the gearbox.

Remove the concentric slave cylinder (CSC) and ensure there are no oil leaks from the input shaft oil seal.

Clean the bell housing using brake and clutch dust cleaner.

Position the new CSC confirming the mounting face is clean.

When fitting and torqueing the retaining bolts ensure they torque correctly, they can sometimes bind on old thread lock.

Put a very light smear of high melting point grease on the gearbox input shaft and mount the clutch plate onto the shaft.

This will confirm fitment and evenly distribute the grease.

Wipe off any excess grease.

Figure nine.

Using a clutch alignment tool (figure nine), mount the clutch plate onto the flywheel ensuring the centre hub is facing the correct component, usually marked ‘gearbox side’.

Degrease the surface of the pressure plate and then mount the pressure plate aligning on the flywheel dowels.

Tighten the bolts in an even and sequential pattern, finally torque to the manufacture’s specification.

Before refitting the gearbox, allow the old clutch fluid to drain out of the hydraulic system and flush through with new fluid.

This will ensure the new CSC does not become contaminated and cause the seal to fail.

Ensure all cables are clear of the bell housing area and the gearbox alignment dowels are installed correctly.

Gearbox replacement

Place the gearbox on the transmission jack.

Bringing it close to the engine, ease the gearbox into position and ensure it locates on the alignment dowels.

When in position, fit two easily accessible bell housing bolts and tighten.

Refit all other components in reverse order of removal and torque all bolts to the manufacture’s specification.

Figure ten.

When bleeding the clutch, the pipe to CSC connection has two positions.

The first clip position is the bleed position and the second clip position is the closed/operating position.

In this instance we vacuum bled the clutch hydraulic system (figure ten).

After the battery lead has been reconnected, reset all electrical consumers.

Always carry out a road test to ensure a quality repair.

Information on Schaeffler products, fitting instructions, repair times and much more can be found on the REPXPERT garage portal, Schaeffler’s REPXPERT app or by calling the Schaeffler technical hotline on 0872 737 0037.

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